Article written for BENG0027 Tech Journalism:

Book Review of Discovering Cosmetic Science, ISBN: 9781782624721

Target audience: Chemistry World readers . Some chemistry knowledge, but non-specific.

Quotes taken from the book and these videos:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IFA8RYorxbk
https://ifscc.org/videos_and_webinars/discovering-cosmetic-science-panel-discussion-of-authors-2-dec-2020/

Discovering Cosmetic Science

“Discovering Cosmetic Science” is described as a “novice’s guide” to the science of cosmetics industry, which bridges the gap between basic popular science books and academic textbooks. Whilst providing satisfying scientific detail, it is pitched so “…you won’t need a PhD to understand the science”. Cosmetics – whether makeup, facial masks, perfume, shampoo, sunscreen, soaps, toothpaste or nail varnish – attract high value research investment.

Broadly, cosmetics are categorised as sun care, hair care, skin care, body care, oral care, perfume, and decorative cosmetics. Although “care” is emphasised, whilst medicines provide actual therapeutic effect, cosmetics “provide a combination of sensorial and functional benefits”. Medicines interact chemically to treat a condition, whereas a cosmetic has a shorter term external effect. As a science student interested in cosmetics, I searched for years for books on cosmetics; this book is the first accessible example which covers the basics of the cosmetic industry. A great general cosmetic science book, it demystifies the jargon of active ingredients, explains what ‘free-from’ and ‘natural’ claims REALLY mean, leaving one feeling empowered as a consumer and satisfied as a reader.

Each chapter covers one aspect of cosmetic science, following a narrative, but which can be dipped into individually to answer specific questions. So the format is handy for reference. In compiling her chapter, Nichola Roberts asked a focus group of new technicians from the Society of Cosmetic Scientists, “If you were in the room with the skincare expert for 10 minutes what questions would you ask?” and responses defined the areas which are covered. As Roberts’ co-author, Robin Parker explained, “the idea was that you would have an expert collaborating with someone who was less experienced in the industry to challenge some of the questions that might be asked by the audience”. This collaborative approach results in a nuanced, authoritative tone.

Roberts asks “how and why does the skins appearance change with age”? The insidious effect of sun damage is amply illustrated in the photograph below. Her chapter addresses questions including “are there differences between men’s and women’s skin”, “how do cosmetics make a difference to skin appearance”, and “why do we have day and night moisturizers, and are they different”?

Figure 1: Photograph of a Mexican lorry driver, showing dramatic asymmetric skin damage. This was the result of driving with the sun on the left hand side of his face for years.

This book is not a guide to make-up manufacture. Whilst decorative cosmetics are covered in the chapter “More Than a Smudge of Colour – The Science Behind Colour Cosmetics”, formulation is only briefly touched upon and pigment dispersion is explained in a basic manner, appropriate for the target reader.

Although targeted at non-scientific readers, cosmetic scientist Perry Romanowski describes this book as a “a great primer for people who are in the industry”. During an authors’ panel discussion, Rachael Polowyj (co-author of the “Myths and Scares – Science in Perspective” chapter with Emma Meredith), revealed: “A lot of the people I know in this industry have kind of fallen into it… But this book is just great because there’s a section at the back and it tells you the different careers that you could have in cosmetic science.” References for further reading, coupled with explanatory sidebars, are useful for readers interested in cosmetics as a career path.

Romanowski commented on the book, “One of the biggest problems we face in the industry is that [it] is really run by the marketing departments … [this book] gets the real science out there it… cuts through a lot of the marketing flair.” “Discovering Cosmetic Science” also sets the record straight. As Emma Meredith explains – the authors’ collective aim was to “bring the science down to a level that people can try and understand” and to restore faith in the industry. She also cites the damage ubiquitous and misleading ‘free-from’ claims have wrought on consumer confidence. So regardless of any interest in the science, this book is a must read for anyone who wants to understand what they are actually buying. British beauty blogger, Cunningham, sums up the book well – “More than anything this book gives you a sort of armour I suppose, to go about looking at your beauty products in a different light and understanding them a bit better”.